Downtown Volgograd in 1996 had very little in the way of charm. Essentially destroyed in the Battle of Stalingrad a half century earlier, in the post-Stalinist era, an era of some slight optimism in the Soviet Union. The downtown had been rebuilt, but by Stalin, lacking imagination, money, or any real vision. Instead, it witnessed the construction of obligatory building after obligatory building, thrown together in the Soviet style.






